The traditional trench has managed to outlive all the latest fashion trends and is embraced by every new generation. It goes with everything and hides all figure flaws with its stiff fabric. It just at home in the evening, slung over a cocktail dress as it is in the day.
What started out life in 1856 as practical attire for British soldiers in the First World War trenches has been embraced by the fashion world as a classic wardrobe staple and is now worn by more women than men.
The trench is seductive; it has an air of mystery, adds a hint of sexiness and oozes glamor. “Put on a trench and you’re suddenly Audrey Hepburn walking along the Seine, even if you’ve got red hair and you’re five one,” says designer Michael Kors, in Harper’s Bazaar Great Style (Aurum Press 2007).
How to Wear a Trench Coat
Pick the perfect trench coat and it goes with everything and hides all figure flaws with its cleverly cut fabric. The belt can be tied tightly (but not too tight so that it bunches around the waist) to create an hour-glass figure or belted loosely for a casual air. Tying the buckle at the back is more tacky than chic.
The Spring 2010 season’s take on the trench sees mini trenches with short hemlines that finish above the knee and cropped sleeves. For a 2010 runway look, wear a trench loose and open, with ruched up sleeves.
Ten Tips for the Perfect Trench Coat
- Keep the shape neat and figure-hugging. According to Paula Reed Style Director of Grazia, in her book Style Clinic ( HarperCollins 2009) “ too much trench will swamp even tall women. Make sure the coat fits well at the shoulders and that lapels are not too wide, flapping around like a big beige bird is not the point.”
- Hemlines should finish on or just above-the-knee. Trenches that sit mid-calf length are in dangerous fashion territory for those with chunky legs, or those women who are vertically challenged.
- Too much detail on a trench can give the illusion of extra weight. Petite women should keep details simple, avoiding voluminous cuts and big lapels and epaulettes.
- Double-breasted coats, with the extra row of buttons, can create the impression of width so are best avoided by fuller-figured women and those with big busts.
- Trenches can be worn crisp or crumpled but for a totally wrinkle free look avid lightweight pure cotton fabrics — blended is better. Stiffer fabrics will hide a multitude of figure flaws.
- Epaulettes should follow the natural line of the shoulder, with the storm flap (if there is one) sitting in proportion to the body shape and not swamping it.
- If buying a trench for its waterproof and windproof qualities then check that the cuff straps are adjustable. This will protect inner sleeves from the elements.
- For ease of movement the coat should have a fantail pleat; an inverted pleat at the center back.
- Choose a neutral color such as beige, camel, gray or black for a traditional timeless trench. However, don’t be afraid to venture into bold colors such as coral, fuchsia or red for an edgy feel and sassy look.
- A leather trench coat may make a dramatic fashion statement but steer clear if wanting to wear it often in the rain. A cotton blend will suffer less.
The humble trench coat not only protects the wearer from the wet and windy weather but it is eternally chic. It is one of the most versatile and practical pieces in a woman's wardrobe and has the added benefit of never going out of style.
Gill Hart - Gill Hart is a fashion and image professional who specializes in women's fashion over 50.
